Your saw shipped with a blade guard you probably removed and a riving knife that is probably in a drawer. Eight push blocks, push sticks, featherboards and a splitter compared - and the federal standard that says what a ripsaw is supposed to carry.
Start with what the law expects, because it reframes this entire purchase. OSHA’s woodworking machinery standard says a hand-fed circular ripsaw must carry three separate things: a hood guard over the blade, a spreader behind it — “to prevent material from squeezing the saw or being thrown back on the operator”, and explicitly “thinner than the saw kerf” — and nonkickback fingers or dogs that “oppose the thrust or tendency of the saw to pick up the material”. That is quoted from 1910.213(c), cited at the foot of this page.
Now look at your saw. On almost every benchtop and jobsite saw those three devices are one assembly, bolted together, and that assembly is in a box in the garage because it blocks the cut you needed to make last March. Which means the honest description of this page is not “accessories”. It is: these are the parts you took off, sold back to you one at a time, in forms that stay on the machine. (OSHA binds employers, not your garage. It is still the clearest published statement of what the tool is supposed to have.)
The lens, in order. Does it control the offcut? First, because the piece between the blade and the fence is the one that gets thrown, and only one pick here straddles the blade to hold it. Pressure in how many directions? Second — a stick pushes forward, a block pushes down and forward, and exactly one tool here adds inward against the fence, which is a real functional difference rather than a better handle. Miter slot fit third, and this is where featherboard purchases actually fail: one pick here fits 3/4 inch slots only and says so, another ships both 5/8 and 3/4 inch bars. What it costs to be used last. A tool with a five-minute setup gets skipped on the cut you were in a hurry for, which is the cut that hurts you.
Prices are live and brackets in the prose are qualitative, because they move. Every spec on every card below was read from that seller’s own listing on the date shown on the card. These listings publish very little — no body material on four of the eight, no dimensions at all on one — and no manufacturer here cites an independent test standard for its kickback claims, which we say on the cards rather than repeating the claim as fact. Here is exactly what we do instead of testing.
How this is funded: we earn a commission if you buy through our links, at no extra cost to you. It never changes which tool we recommend, and we’ll tell you plainly when to skip one. Full disclosure.
Quick picks
Ranked on the specs that matter for a beginner and honest buyer fit. Select a row to jump to the full write-up. We haven’t hands-on-tested these — here is exactly what we do instead.
#
Product
Best for
Price
1
MICROJIG GRR-RIPPER+ 3D Push Block with SafeRip Kit (GR-100+)
The only push block here that applies pressure in three directions at once - down, inward against the fence, and forward - which is what makes it a genuinely different tool rather than a nicer handle. It is also the only one designed to straddle the blade, so the offcut is still under control after the cut instead of free to twitch into the teeth.
POWERTEC 71009V Push Block and Push Stick Set, 5-Piece
Five pieces - one long hold-down block, two short ones, a V-notch stick and a straight stick - for about the price of one premium push block, and the right first purchase for a shop that currently has nothing. You will not use all five, but you will find out which two you actually reach for, which is worth more than guessing.
The cheapest thing on this page and the one most likely to actually get used, because it lives in an apron pocket instead of on a shelf. A 13-inch stick with a rubber overmolded handle and a hanging hole is not clever, and that is the recommendation: there is no setup, so there is no excuse.
Rockler Roc77405 D-Handle Narrow Push Block with Tailhook
A narrow push block with a non-slip base and a spring-loaded tailhook, which is the useful middle ground between a stick and a 3D block: the base holds the stock down, the hook pushes it forward, and the narrow body still fits between a blade and a close fence. For thin rips it is the pick that does the most for the least setup.
POWERTEC 71393 Universal Tandem Featherboards, 2-Pack
Two featherboards, the hardware to mount them in a miter slot or a T-track, and spacers to stack them - which is the configuration that actually matters, because one featherboard ahead of the blade holds the stock to the fence and a second one stacked above holds it down. Buying a single featherboard and discovering you needed two is the common mistake this pack avoids.
The featherboard that tells you which miter slot it fits, and that is the reason to pick it: both 5/8 in and 3/4 in metal miter bars are in the box, two of each, so it goes into an old benchtop saw with a narrow slot as well as a modern cabinet saw. The split-rail bar is the other reason - it expands in the slot rather than relying on a knob you keep re-tightening.
A spiral instead of a comb of fingers, adjusted with one knob rather than two, which is a real ergonomic difference on the one accessory you reset constantly. Buy it for the single-knob setup and the expanding aluminum miter bar - and only if your miter slot is a true 3/4 inch, because the listing is explicit that it does not fit 5/8 in slots.
This is the one item here that restores a safety device your saw was supposed to have. OSHA's woodworking machinery standard requires a hand-fed ripsaw to carry a spreader thinner than the saw kerf, and most benchtop saws ship with a riving knife that comes off with the blade guard and never goes back on. The splitter mounts in a zero-clearance insert and stays there.
MICROJIG GRR-RIPPER+ 3D Push Block with SafeRip Kit (GR-100+)
The only push block here that applies pressure in three directions at once - down, inward against the fence, and forward - which is what makes it a genuinely different tool rather than a nicer handle. It is also the only one designed to straddle the blade, so the offcut is still under control after the cut instead of free to twitch into the teeth.
Strengths
+Downward, inward and forward pressure from one grip, so the workpiece stays on the table and tight to the fence without a second hand near the blade
+Adjustable legs straddle the blade, which means the narrow offcut is held rather than released - the single biggest cause of a narrow rip going wrong
+Listing states it will rip down to 1/4 in by 1/4 in material, a claim no other pick here makes
+Works on a router table, band saw and jointer as well as a table saw, so it is not a single-machine purchase
Trade-offs
−By far the most expensive pick here, and five of the eight cost less than a third of it
−There is a real setup cost: legs, spacers and the SafeRip inserts all need positioning for each new cut width, and a rushed setup is worse than a simple push stick
−The green grip pads are consumable. They wear, and they are what the whole tool depends on
−No published force figure or test standard - the kickback claims on the listing are the manufacturer's own
Type
3D push block
In the set
Single tool
Material / build
Polymer body with proprietary grip pads
Key spec
Downward, inward and forward pressure; straddles the blade; rips to 1/4 in x 1/4 in
Best for
Best overall, and the only pick that controls the offcut
Worth knowing. The listing states "powerful downward, inward, and forward pressure delivers cleaner cuts and prevents material burn and kickback", that it is "designed for use on table saws, router tables, jointers, and band saws", that with the GRR-RIPPER+ you can "rip down to 1/4\" by 1/4\" material on a table saw", and that the grip carries "an exclusive limited lifetime warranty". Part number and model GR-100+; stated 7.9 x 7.9 x 3.9 in. No independent test standard is cited on the listing.
Specs read from the product listing, on October 23, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.
#2Best first set if you own nothing
POWERTEC 71009V Push Block and Push Stick Set, 5-Piece
Five pieces - one long hold-down block, two short ones, a V-notch stick and a straight stick - for about the price of one premium push block, and the right first purchase for a shop that currently has nothing. You will not use all five, but you will find out which two you actually reach for, which is worth more than guessing.
Strengths
+Covers both tool classes in one box: hold-down blocks for face work and narrow sticks for ripping
+Stated contents are specific and checkable - (1) long hold-down block, (2) short hold-down blocks, (1) V stick, (1) straight stick
+The straight stick is deliberately narrow for cuts where there is no room beside the fence, which is exactly where hands get hurt
+Cheap enough to keep a set at the table saw and a set at the router table
Trade-offs
−None of the five straddles the blade, so the offcut is unsupported on a narrow rip
−No material, durometer or pad composition is stated anywhere on the listing - it says max grip but does not say of what
−Five pieces means five things to store, and the two you never use will be the ones on the saw table
−Unit count on the listing reads 0, which is a data error on Amazon's side rather than a spec, so the piece count comes from the feature bullet
Type
Push block and push stick set
In the set
5 pieces
Material / build
Not listed
Key spec
1 long + 2 short hold-down blocks; 1 V stick; 1 straight stick
Best for
Best value, and the best first set if you own nothing
Worth knowing. The listing states "INCLUDES: (1) Long Hold Down Push Block (1) Safe V Stick and (1) Straight Push Stick (2) Short Hold Down Push Blocks", that the blocks allow "a firm and steady downward pressure of the workpiece, without the bounce or chatter as it crosses the cutters blades", and that "push blocks are commonly used for face jointing, ripping plywood, routing". Part number and model 71009V. No material or pad specification is published.
Specs read from the product listing, on October 23, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.
#3Best cheap push stick
Bench Dog 10-079 Pocket Push Stick
The cheapest thing on this page and the one most likely to actually get used, because it lives in an apron pocket instead of on a shelf. A 13-inch stick with a rubber overmolded handle and a hanging hole is not clever, and that is the recommendation: there is no setup, so there is no excuse.
Strengths
+Costs less than a bottle of glue, which removes the last argument against owning one
+13 in long and 2.3 in wide, so it keeps a hand a real distance from the blade without being unwieldy
+Contoured handle with a rubber overmold, and a mounting hole so it hangs beside the saw instead of wandering
+Thin enough at 0.5 in to work in the gap between the blade and fence on a narrow rip
Trade-offs
−A stick pushes; it does not hold down. On a cupped or twisted board it will not keep the stock on the table
−Nothing controls the offcut, so this is the wrong tool for ripping a thin strip free of a wide board
−No material is stated beyond the rubber overmold on the handle
−One stick. Most cuts want a stick in one hand and something holding down with the other
Type
Push stick
In the set
Single tool
Material / build
Not listed; rubber overmolded handle
Key spec
13 x 2.3 x 0.5 in; non-slip handle; mounting hole
Best for
Best cheap push stick to keep in your apron
Worth knowing. The listing states that the stick "keeps your hands at a safe distance while providing full control over your workpiece", that "the handle is ergonomically designed with a contoured shape and a rubber over mold", that it "features a convenient mounting hole for easy storage", and "What Is Included: You get (1) Bench Dog Pocket Push Stick". Part number and model 10-079; stated 13 x 2.3 x 0.5 in. Body material is not published.
Specs read from the product listing, on October 23, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.
#4Best for narrow rips
Rockler Roc77405 D-Handle Narrow Push Block with Tailhook
A narrow push block with a non-slip base and a spring-loaded tailhook, which is the useful middle ground between a stick and a 3D block: the base holds the stock down, the hook pushes it forward, and the narrow body still fits between a blade and a close fence. For thin rips it is the pick that does the most for the least setup.
Strengths
+Non-slip base plus a tailhook means downward and forward pressure together, which a plain push stick cannot do
+Narrow body is specifically aimed at thin rips and thin-strip jigs, the cuts where a wide block will not fit
+D-handle gives a full-hand grip rather than a pinch, so control does not depend on finger strength
+Listing states a steel storage dock is included, so it hangs where you use it
Trade-offs
−Does not straddle the blade, so the strip you just cut free is still unsupported
−No part number is published and the model reads as a catalog SKU, which makes finding spare pads or a replacement harder
−No dimensions at all are published on the listing, so how narrow narrow actually is cannot be verified before it arrives
−Costs roughly three times the plain Bench Dog stick for one more function
Type
Push block
In the set
Single tool
Material / build
Not listed
Key spec
Narrow body; non-slip base; spring-loaded tailhook; storage dock included
Best for
Best for narrow rips and thin strips
Worth knowing. The listing states that it is "designed for safe, controlled cuts on a table saw" and "ideal for narrow rip cuts, thin strips, and precision woodworking tasks", that the "non slip, grippy bottom surface holds material firmly in place", that the "integrated tailhook provides forward pressure and added control when pushing stock through cuts", and that it "also features steel storage dock". Model Roc77405; no part number and no dimensions are published.
Specs read from the product listing, on October 23, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.
#5Best featherboard value (pair)
POWERTEC 71393 Universal Tandem Featherboards, 2-Pack
Two featherboards, the hardware to mount them in a miter slot or a T-track, and spacers to stack them - which is the configuration that actually matters, because one featherboard ahead of the blade holds the stock to the fence and a second one stacked above holds it down. Buying a single featherboard and discovering you needed two is the common mistake this pack avoids.
Strengths
+Two in the box with T-bolts, five-star knobs and miter-slot brackets, so it mounts on a table saw or a router fence out of the pack
+Spacers are included for stacking, which is how you get sideways and downward pressure from one setup
+Reversible profile plus a miter lock system is stated to fit both T-slots and miter slots, so it moves between machines
+Color-alert orange, which sounds like marketing until you have reached past a dark gray one
Trade-offs
−Two knobs per board means every adjustment is a two-handed fiddle, and you will adjust them often
−No miter bar width is published, only that it fits t-slots and miter slots - worth measuring your own slot before buying
−Molded plastic fingers take a set over time and are not replaceable
−A featherboard belongs BEFORE the blade only. Nothing on the listing says so, and mounting one beside or behind the blade pinches the cut and causes the kickback it is meant to prevent
Type
Featherboard (pair)
In the set
2 pieces
Material / build
Molded plastic
Key spec
2 featherboards; T-bolts, 5-star knobs, miter brackets and stacking spacers included
Best for
Best overall featherboard set, and the best value in a pair
Worth knowing. The listing states "INCLUDES: (2) Featherboards with Threaded 5 Star Knobs, T-Bolts, and Miter Slot Brackets", that it "possesses additional hardware for adaptive mounting solutions, including miter slot brackets for horizontal mounting, vertical mounting for 3\" multi-tracks and plastic spacers for stackable featherboards", and that it "contains a miter lock system (plus a reversible profile) that is compatible with both, t-slots and miter slots". Part number and model 71393; unit count 2; stated 10.63 x 7.5 x 2.5 in. No miter bar width figure is published.
Specs read from the product listing, on October 23, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.
#6Best miter-slot fit
Milescraft 1407 D/T Feather Board
The featherboard that tells you which miter slot it fits, and that is the reason to pick it: both 5/8 in and 3/4 in metal miter bars are in the box, two of each, so it goes into an old benchtop saw with a narrow slot as well as a modern cabinet saw. The split-rail bar is the other reason - it expands in the slot rather than relying on a knob you keep re-tightening.
Strengths
+Both 5/8 in and 3/4 in miter bars included, two of each, which removes the single most common featherboard compatibility failure
+Split-rail miter bar construction is stated to provide maximum hold, so it locks in the slot instead of sliding
+Dual slide motion - side to side and forward - so you set pressure and position separately
+Includes the spacer for tandem operation, so one purchase covers the stacked setup
Trade-offs
−One featherboard, so the stacked or two-point setup needs a second purchase despite the tandem hardware being included
−Costs about the same as the POWERTEC two-pack for half the boards; you are paying for the metal bars and fit
−Pre-load tension is quick to set but there is no scale or index, so repeating yesterday's setting is guesswork
−Same standing warning as every featherboard: ahead of the blade only, never beside or behind it
Type
Featherboard
In the set
Single tool
Material / build
Plastic body, metal miter bars
Key spec
5/8 in and 3/4 in metal miter bars (2 each); 1/4 in T-slot bolts; tandem spacer included
Best for
Best for miter-slot fit, including older and narrow-slot saws
Worth knowing. The listing states "5/8 in. and 3/4 in. metal miter bars, that fit all standard miter slots (2 each)", "1/4 in. t-slot bolts fit most table saws, router tables and band saws", "consistent tension and maximum holding pressure created by unique split rail construction", "dual slide motion - Side to side and forward action", and that it "includes sturdy spacer for tandem FeatherBoard operations". Part number 1407, model T26905; stated 9.6 x 8.3 x 2.3 in, 1.6 lb.
Specs read from the product listing, on October 23, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.
#7Best one-handed setup
The Hedgehog HH-100 Spiral Featherboard
A spiral instead of a comb of fingers, adjusted with one knob rather than two, which is a real ergonomic difference on the one accessory you reset constantly. Buy it for the single-knob setup and the expanding aluminum miter bar - and only if your miter slot is a true 3/4 inch, because the listing is explicit that it does not fit 5/8 in slots.
Strengths
+Single pivot knob: drop it in the slot, push it against the stock, tighten once. No balancing of two knobs
+Aluminum expanding miter bar locks into a 3/4 in x 3/8 in slot rather than relying on friction
+Reversible for left or right-side feed, so it works for ripping, resawing and routing edge profiles
+Listing states lower drag than EVA foam featherboards, which is the honest reason a spiral is not just a styling choice
Trade-offs
−Explicitly does not fit 5/8 in miter slots - the listing tells you to measure first, and plenty of older benchtop saws are 5/8 in
−One board only, and the stacked top-down setup needs a second one or a different product
−Most expensive single featherboard here
−A spiral bears on a narrower strip of the workpiece than a full comb, which is a trade, not a free upgrade
Type
Featherboard
In the set
Single tool
Material / build
Engineered polymer body, aluminum miter bar
Key spec
Fits 3/4 in x 3/8 in miter slots only; single-knob adjustment; reversible
Best for
Best one-handed setup, if your miter slot is 3/4 in
Worth knowing. The listing states "the patented spiral design features a single pivot knob for lightning-fast setups", "includes a premium aluminum expanding miter bar that locks securely into any standard 3/4-inch wide by 3/8-inch deep miter slot. (Note: Please measure your slot before purchase; does not fit 5/8-inch slots)", that "the reversible design works effortlessly for both left-side and right-side feed operations", and "lower drag compared to EVA foam featherboards". Part number and model HH-100; stated 9.5 x 6.5 x 1.75 in, 10 oz.
Specs read from the product listing, on October 23, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.
This is the one item here that restores a safety device your saw was supposed to have. OSHA's woodworking machinery standard requires a hand-fed ripsaw to carry a spreader thinner than the saw kerf, and most benchtop saws ship with a riving knife that comes off with the blade guard and never goes back on. The splitter mounts in a zero-clearance insert and stays there.
Strengths
+Keeps the kerf open behind the blade so the offcut cannot pinch the back teeth, which is the physical mechanism of most kickback
+Stays installed. Unlike a riving knife attached to the guard assembly, there is nothing to remove for a dado or a non-through cut except the insert itself
+Kit includes four splitters with built-in offsets, four kerf keepers, a precision drill guide and a 3/16 in bit - everything the install needs
+Polycarbonate shell over a stainless core, so it is stiff without being hard enough to damage a blade on contact
Trade-offs
−This is the THIN KERF version. Fitting it behind a full-kerf blade is wrong and MICROJIG sells a separate full-kerf kit - check your blade before ordering
−Requires a zero-clearance insert you either buy or make, so the real project is bigger than the box
−Installation means drilling two holes in that insert. It is permanent to that insert, and getting the alignment wrong wastes it
−A splitter is not a riving knife: it does not rise and fall with the blade and it offers no overhead guarding
Type
Table saw splitter kit
In the set
Single tool
Material / build
Polycarbonate shell, stainless steel core
Key spec
Thin kerf; 4 splitters + 4 kerf keepers, drill guide and 3/16 in bit; fits a zero-clearance insert
Best for
Best for preventing kickback on a saw with no riving knife
Worth knowing. The listing states "Includes (4) MJ Splitter thin kerfs, (4) Kerf Keepers, precision drill guide, 3/16\" drill bit, and screws; the MJ Splitter Steel Pro thin kerf kit installs in a zero clearance insert", that it "installs behind the blade to keep the kerf open and the workpiece tight to the fence", that the "four splitters feature built-in offsets to match your blade kerf", and that a "polycarbonate shell reinforced with a stainless steel core provides stability under cutting pressure". Part number and model SP-2TK.
Specs read from the product listing, on October 23, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.
What actually causes kickback, and which of these stops it
Kickback on a table saw has one dominant mechanism and it is worth understanding before you buy anything. As a board is ripped, internal stresses and simple feed error let the offcut close on the back of the blade. The back teeth are rising and travelling toward you. The instant they grab, the workpiece becomes a projectile aimed at the operator, and your hand goes with it if it is pushing from behind.
That is exactly what OSHA’s spreader, thinner than the saw kerf, is for: it occupies the kerf behind the blade so it cannot close. On a modern saw that job is done by the riving knife, which rises and falls with the blade — and which comes off with the guard assembly. The MICROJIG MJ Splitter is the retrofit: two small steel-cored splitters that mount into a zero-clearance insert and stay there through every cut, including the ones where you would have removed a riving knife.
A featherboard attacks the same failure from the other side by keeping the stock tight to the fence so it cannot wander into the blade at an angle. And the GRR-RIPPER attacks it by holding both sides of the cut, so the narrow offcut never becomes a loose object. Push sticks and plain push blocks do something different and more modest: they keep your hand away from the consequence. All three jobs matter. None of the three substitutes for the others.
The featherboard rule that no listing prints
This one is important enough to state on its own. A featherboard goes BEFORE the blade. Never beside it, and never behind it.
The reason is the same mechanism as above. A featherboard presses the workpiece toward the fence. If that pressure is applied alongside or past the blade, it pushes the already-cut material into the blade — pinching the kerf closed, which is precisely the condition that throws the board. Mounted ahead of the blade it holds the stock on line going in and releases it as the cut proceeds, which is what you want.
Not one of the three featherboard listings on this page says so. Each one talks about reducing kickback without mentioning the placement that decides whether it reduces or causes it. If you take one thing away from this page, take that.
Miter slot fit: measure before you order
The commonest wasted purchase in this category is a featherboard that will not seat in your saw. Standard miter slots are nominally 3/4 inch wide by 3/8 inch deep, but plenty of older and smaller benchtop saws use a 5/8 inch slot, and some use a T-slot profile that a plain bar cannot be removed from without lifting it out the end.
The three featherboards here handle this very differently, and the difference should decide your pick:
The Milescraft 1407 ships both 5/8 inch and 3/4 inch metal miter bars, two of each, plus 1/4 inch T-slot bolts. If your saw is old, cheap or unidentified, that is the safe choice. The Hedgehog HH-100 is explicit in the other direction: its aluminum expanding bar fits a 3/4 by 3/8 inch slot and the listing tells you in plain language that it does not fit 5/8 inch slots. The POWERTEC 71393 pair states a miter lock system compatible with T-slots and miter slots but publishes no bar width figure at all, so measure your slot first and treat that one as the unknown.
Push block or push stick? They are not competing
A push stick is a lever: it applies force at the back of the workpiece, forward, from a safe distance. It is right for ripping a narrow piece where there is no room beside the fence, and it is wrong the moment a board wants to lift or chatter, because a stick cannot hold anything down.
A push block has a grippy base and applies downward pressure plus forward motion. That is right for face-jointing, for feeding stock over a router bit, and for any board that is not perfectly flat — which, if you have read our guide to squaring up a board, is most rough lumber. The Rockler D-handle adds a spring-loaded tailhook so the block pushes as well as holds, which is the useful middle ground and the reason it is the narrow-rip pick.
The POWERTEC five-piece set exists because the honest answer is “you need both”. Three blocks and two sticks for the price of one premium block is how you find out which two you actually reach for, and the ones you do not use cost you almost nothing.
These are router table tools too
Every pick on this page except the splitter works on a router table, and on a router table the case for them is arguably stronger. A router bit has no kerf to pinch, so kickback in the table-saw sense is not the hazard — but a spinning bit will self-feed a workpiece, snatching it along the fence faster than you intended, and a featherboard is the standard answer to exactly that.
If you are routing edge profiles on narrow stock, a featherboard ahead of the bit plus a push block is the difference between a clean profile and a burned, snatched one. Our router picks and the guide to using a router safely cover the feed-direction rules that go with them — which are not optional and are the other half of this purchase.
The thin-kerf warning on the splitter, spelled out
The MJ Splitter is sold in two versions and they are not interchangeable. The one on this page is the thin kerf kit (part SP-2TK). Thin-kerf blades — which is what most 15-amp jobsite saws should be running, because a thinner kerf asks less of the motor — cut a narrower slot, and a splitter sized for a full-kerf blade will not fit it. MICROJIG sells a separate full-kerf kit. Check your blade before you order; our saw blade guide explains which you are probably using.
The second thing the listing understates: this kit installs into a zero-clearance insert, which you either buy for your specific saw or make from plywood or MDF. Installation means drilling two holes in that insert with the included guide, so the splitter is permanent to it. That is a project, not an unboxing. If that sounds like more than you want, the featherboards deliver a large share of the benefit with none of the commitment.
What this page does not fix
Honesty about the limits. None of these is a blade guard. OSHA’s first requirement is the hood that “shall completely enclose that portion of the saw above the table”, and nothing here replaces it — if your saw’s guard is in a drawer, putting it back on for through-cuts is free and does more than anything on this page. None of these is a SawStop-style blade brake either. And none of them helps with the other table saw hazard, which is dust: our dust collection guide covers that, and the safety gear roundup covers the eyes, ears and lungs these accessories do not protect.
And the honest first question, which our do you need a table saw to start page answers at length: a beginner mostly does not need one. A circular saw and a guide rail cut sheet goods more safely and for less money. This page is for the reader who already has the saw.
The verdict
Buy the GRR-RIPPER+ if you rip narrow stock on a table saw and want the best tool on this page. Three directions of pressure and genuine control of the offcut is a different capability, not a nicer handle — as long as you will actually do the setup each time.
Buy the POWERTEC 71009V set if you own nothing. Five pieces for less than a single premium block, covering both blocks and sticks, and you will learn which two you reach for.
Buy the Bench Dog pocket stick regardless. It costs almost nothing, it hangs on a hook by the saw, and the accessory that is within arm’s reach is the one that gets used.
Buy the Rockler D-handle block if thin rips are your regular work and the GRR-RIPPER is more money than you want to spend.
Buy the POWERTEC 71393 pair for featherboards, because two is the number you need — one against the fence and one stacked above to hold down — and this is the cheapest honest way to get two.
Buy the Milescraft 1407 instead if your saw is old, small or you simply do not know your slot width. Both bar sizes in the box removes the only real compatibility risk here.
Buy the Hedgehog HH-100 if you have confirmed a 3/4 inch slot and you value a one-knob setup, which on an accessory you reposition constantly is worth more than it sounds.
Buy the MJ Splitter Steel Pro if your riving knife is gone and you are willing to make or buy a zero-clearance insert. It is the only item here that restores the device the standard actually asks for.
One safety note. Power tools deserve respect, not fear. Read the manual, keep the guards on, wear ANSI-rated eye protection every time, and never rush a cut. When something feels wrong, stop and reset — there is no deadline in a home shop.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best push block for a table saw?+
For ripping, the MICROJIG GRR-RIPPER+ does something no other push block here does: its adjustable legs straddle the blade, so the narrow offcut stays under control instead of becoming a loose piece beside a spinning blade. It also applies downward, inward and forward pressure from one grip. The trade is price and setup time - if your work is mostly crosscuts and sheet goods, a simple hold-down block and a push stick cover you for a fraction of the money.
Where should a featherboard be placed on a table saw?+
Before the blade, always - never beside it and never behind it. A featherboard presses the workpiece toward the fence; applied alongside or past the blade, that pressure pinches the kerf closed on the back teeth, which is the exact condition that causes kickback. Mounted ahead of the blade it holds the stock on line going in and releases it as the cut proceeds. None of the product listings state this, which is why it is worth repeating.
Do I need a featherboard if I already have a push stick?+
They do different jobs. A push stick keeps your hand away from the blade; a featherboard holds the workpiece against the fence for the entire cut, including the part where your hand has to be elsewhere. The featherboard prevents the error, the push stick limits the consequence. If you buy one, buy the featherboard - but the push stick costs so little that owning both is the sensible answer.
What is a table saw splitter, and is it the same as a riving knife?+
No. A riving knife is mounted to the saw's trunnion so it rises, falls and tilts with the blade, and it usually comes off with the blade guard. A splitter is a fixed piece that sits in the saw's throat plate behind the blade and stays put. Both do the job OSHA 1910.213(c)(2) describes - keeping the kerf open so the offcut cannot squeeze the blade - but a splitter does not adjust with blade height and provides no overhead guarding.
Will a featherboard fit my table saw?+
Measure the miter slot before ordering. The nominal standard is 3/4 inch wide by 3/8 inch deep, but many older and smaller benchtop saws use a 5/8 inch slot. Of the picks here, the Milescraft 1407 includes both 5/8 and 3/4 inch bars, the Hedgehog states it fits 3/4 inch only and not 5/8 inch, and the POWERTEC pair publishes no bar width at all. A T-slot profile also matters: a plain bar in a T-slot can only be removed out the end of the slot.
Can I use these on a router table?+
Yes, and every pick here except the splitter is sold for router table use as well. A router bit cannot pinch a kerf, so table-saw kickback is not the hazard - but a bit will self-feed a workpiece along the fence faster than you meant it to, and a featherboard ahead of the bit is the standard defense. Push blocks are also the right way to feed narrow stock over a bit.
Are these a substitute for the blade guard?+
No, and it is worth being blunt about it. OSHA's first requirement for a hand-fed ripsaw is a hood that completely encloses the blade above the table; nothing on this page does that. If your saw's guard is sitting in a drawer, refitting it for through-cuts costs nothing and does more for your hands than any accessory here. These tools cover the jobs the guard cannot - feeding, holding stock to the fence, and keeping the kerf open.
Should I buy the thin-kerf or full-kerf splitter?+
Match it to your blade, not to your saw. The kit on this page is the thin-kerf version (SP-2TK); MICROJIG sells a separate full-kerf kit, and a splitter sized for the wrong kerf will not fit. Most 15-amp jobsite and benchtop saws run thin-kerf blades because a narrower cut asks less of the motor, but check the blade you actually have before ordering.
Sources
OSHA — 1910.213(c), Hand-fed ripsaws — The three devices the federal woodworking machinery standard requires on a hand-fed circular ripsaw, quoted from the standard itself. (c)(1), the hood guard: "Each circular hand-fed ripsaw shall be guarded by a hood which shall completely enclose that portion of the saw above the table and that portion of the saw above the material being cut", and it "shall be so mounted as to insure that its operation will be positive, reliable, and in true alignment with the saw". (c)(2), the spreader: "Each hand-fed circular ripsaw shall be furnished with a spreader to prevent material from squeezing the saw or being thrown back on the operator. The spreader shall be made of hard tempered steel, or its equivalent, and shall be thinner than the saw kerf" - and "the provision of a spreader in connection with grooving, dadoing, or rabbeting is not required. On the completion of such operations, the spreader shall be immediately replaced." (c)(3), the anti-kickback device: "Each hand-fed circular ripsaw shall be provided with nonkickback fingers or dogs so located as to oppose the thrust or tendency of the saw to pick up the material or to throw it back toward the operator. They shall be designed to provide adequate holding power for all the thicknesses of materials being cut." This is an employer standard and does not bind a home shop, but it is the clearest published statement of what a table saw is supposed to carry (accessed October 23, 2026)
