The bits that came with your drill are made for metal. Five sets that cut wood properly — brad points, Forstners, spades and the countersink that stops boards splitting.
Almost every drill is sold with a set of twist bits, and almost every one of those sets is designed for metal. They will make a hole in wood, and the hole will have a torn, fuzzy rim, will start a few millimeters from where you marked, and will splinter out the back. Beginners see that result and conclude their technique is bad. It is the bit.
Woodworking uses a different family of bits, each with a job. Here is what we compare on. Whether it scores the rim before cutting— the single feature that separates a clean hole from a ragged one. Whether the hole bottom is flat or conical, which decides what the bit can be used for. How it starts— a center point stops a bit skating off your mark. Heat behavior, because large bits in dense wood burn. And cost per useful size, since most sets contain sizes you will never touch.
The honest summary: buy brad points for wood, keep a twist set for everything else, and add the specialist bits when a project asks for them. That is three purchases, none of them expensive.
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Quick picks
Ranked on the specs that matter for a beginner and honest buyer fit. Select a row to jump to the full write-up. We haven’t hands-on-tested these — here is exactly what we do instead.
#
Product
Best for
Price
1
DeWalt DW1720 Brad Point Drill Bit Set, 6-Piece
The bits that should be in your drill for wood. The center spur bites where you marked instead of wandering, and the outer spurs sever the fibers before the flutes lift them — which is the whole difference between a clean hole and a fuzzy one.
DeWalt DW1354 Titanium Nitride Coated Drill Bit Set, 14-Piece
The general-purpose set every shop needs alongside the wood bits — for pilot holes in hardware, drilling steel brackets, and every job where the material is not wood. Pilot-point tips start without a center punch.
Forstner bits cut flat-bottomed holes with clean walls — the ones you need for shelf pins, concealed hinges, dowel sockets and any hole that will be seen. Nothing else in a drill does this job.
Fast, rough and cheap — exactly right for a hole nobody will ever see. Running a cable, clearing a passage, boring a big hole in a stud: a spade bit does in ten seconds what a Forstner does in a minute.
FTG USA 5-Piece Tapered Countersink Drill Bit Set (#4 #6 #8 #10 #12)
Drills the pilot hole, the clearance hole and the countersink in one plunge, sized to actual screw gauges. It is the difference between a screw that sits flush and a split board with a proud screw head.
The bits that should be in your drill for wood. The center spur bites where you marked instead of wandering, and the outer spurs sever the fibers before the flutes lift them — which is the whole difference between a clean hole and a fuzzy one.
Strengths
+Center point stops the bit skating off your mark
+Side spurs cut a crisp rim, so the hole edge does not tear
+Six sizes cover almost every beginner hole
Trade-offs
−For wood only — these will not survive metal
−Six sizes means gaps; you will eventually want the fuller set
Type
Brad point drill bit set
In the set
6 pieces
Material / build
Steel, black oxide finish
Key spec
Brad point, 6 sizes
Best for
Best overall for wood
Worth knowing. The twist bits that come with a drill are engineered for metal. They work in wood and they tear the rim of the hole while doing it. Brad points are the single cheapest upgrade to how your work looks.
Specs read from the product listing, on August 11, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.
#2Best general-purpose set
DeWalt DW1354 Titanium Nitride Coated Drill Bit Set, 14-Piece
The general-purpose set every shop needs alongside the wood bits — for pilot holes in hardware, drilling steel brackets, and every job where the material is not wood. Pilot-point tips start without a center punch.
Strengths
+Pilot point starts on contact instead of walking across the surface
+Titanium nitride coating extends life in metal noticeably
+Fourteen sizes covers screws, bolts and hardware pilots
Trade-offs
−Twist geometry tears the rim of a hole in wood
−The coating is a surface treatment — resharpening removes it
Type
Twist drill bit set
In the set
14 pieces
Material / build
High-speed steel, titanium nitride coated
Key spec
Pilot point, 14 sizes
Best for
Best all-purpose set for everything that isn't wood
Worth knowing. Titanium bits are not titanium. The coating is a few microns of titanium nitride on ordinary high-speed steel — genuinely useful for heat and wear in metal, irrelevant in wood.
Specs read from the product listing, on August 11, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.
#3Best for flat-bottomed holes
Comoware 16-Piece Forstner Bit Set
Forstner bits cut flat-bottomed holes with clean walls — the ones you need for shelf pins, concealed hinges, dowel sockets and any hole that will be seen. Nothing else in a drill does this job.
Strengths
+Flat bottom and clean rim, which no twist or spade bit produces
+Can be started at the edge of a board or overlapped for a slot
+Sixteen sizes covers hinge cups through to large through-holes
Trade-offs
−Generates real heat — they burn if you push or run fast
−Large sizes strain a cordless drill; a drill press is the natural home
Type
Forstner bit set
In the set
16 pieces
Material / build
Carbon steel
Key spec
16 sizes, flat-bottom cutting
Best for
Best for flat-bottomed and overlapping holes
Worth knowing. Run Forstner bits slow and clear the chips often. Most burning is caused by speed, not by pressure — the rim is doing a scraping cut and it has nowhere to shed heat.
Specs read from the product listing, on August 11, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.
#4Best for fast rough holes
Milwaukee 49-22-0071 Spade Wood Boring Bit Set
Fast, rough and cheap — exactly right for a hole nobody will ever see. Running a cable, clearing a passage, boring a big hole in a stud: a spade bit does in ten seconds what a Forstner does in a minute.
Strengths
+Cuts large diameters far faster than any other bit
+Cheap enough to treat as consumable
+Fits any drill chuck and needs no drill press
Trade-offs
−Blows out the back of a board unless you back it with scrap
−Ragged hole walls — never use one where the hole will be visible
Type
Spade bit set
In the set
6 pieces
Material / build
Steel
Key spec
Flat boring, hex shanks
Best for
Best for fast, rough holes
Worth knowing. The blowout fix is one habit: stop as soon as the center spur pokes through the far side, flip the board, and finish the hole from the other face.
Specs read from the product listing, on August 11, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.
#5Best for screws
FTG USA 5-Piece Tapered Countersink Drill Bit Set (#4 #6 #8 #10 #12)
Drills the pilot hole, the clearance hole and the countersink in one plunge, sized to actual screw gauges. It is the difference between a screw that sits flush and a split board with a proud screw head.
Strengths
+Tapered pilot matches the taper of a real wood screw
+Adjustable depth collar sets the countersink once for a whole batch
+Sized by screw gauge, so there is no guesswork
Trade-offs
−Collar set screws need checking — they creep loose with vibration
−Five gauges only; unusual screw sizes are not covered
Type
Countersink pilot bit set
In the set
5 pieces
Material / build
High-speed steel with depth collars
Key spec
Screw gauges #4 to #12
Best for
Best for screws that sit flush and don't split the wood
Worth knowing. Wood splits because a screw is a wedge. A tapered pilot removes exactly the material the shank will occupy, which is why a pilot hole is not optional near the end of a board.
Specs read from the product listing, on August 11, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.
The bit types, and what each one is for
Brad point — clean holes in wood
Your default for any hole that will be seen or that has to be where you marked it: dowel holes, shelf pins, hardware pilots. Wood only — the fine spurs will not survive metal.
Twist — everything that isn’t wood
The general-purpose bit. In a wood shop you use these for drilling steel brackets, hardware, machine parts and the occasional pilot where appearance does not matter. Modern pilot-point tips start without a center punch, which is a genuine improvement over old-style twist bits.
Forstner — flat bottoms, clean walls
The specialist that has no substitute. A Forstner bit cuts a flat-bottomed hole with smooth walls, can be started at the very edge of a board, and can overlap its own holes to make a slot. Concealed hinge cups, dowel sockets, decorative recesses and any large hole that will be visible all need one.
The trade-off is heat. Forstner bits scrape as much as they cut, so they need slow speeds and frequent chip clearing or they will scorch a hole black. Large sizes are genuinely happier in a drill press than a cordless drill.
Spade — fast and rough
A flat paddle with a center point. Fast, cheap, and produces a hole with ragged walls that no one should ever see. Perfect for running a cable through a stud or clearing a passage inside a cabinet. Always back the workpiece with scrap, or stop and finish from the other side, because spade bits blow out the exit face spectacularly.
Countersink — the one that stops splits
A tapered pilot bit with a countersink and an adjustable stop collar, sized by screw gauge. It drills the pilot, the clearance and the countersink in one plunge, so the screw head sits flush and the wood does not split. Wood splits because a screw is a wedge; a tapered pilot removes exactly the material the shank will occupy.
Speed and technique
Bit diameter and drill speed are inversely related, and this is where most burned holes come from.
Small bits (under 1/4 in): high speed, light pressure.
Medium bits: moderate speed, steady pressure.
Large Forstner and spade bits: as slow as your drill will go, with the bit withdrawn every second or so to clear chips.
Two more habits worth building. Back the exit facewith a scrap board clamped underneath — the fibers at the back of the hole have nothing supporting them and blow out otherwise. And drill in stages for big holes: a pilot hole first lets a large bit track rather than wander.
Pilot holes: when and what size
Always drill a pilot when screwing near the end or edge of a board, into hardwood, or with a large screw. The rule of thumb is that the pilot should match the diameter of the screw’s core, not its threads — hold the bit up in front of the screw and you should see the threads sticking out either side of the bit but not the shaft.
In softwood you can often get away with no pilot for small screws. In hardwood, skipping a pilot will either split the board or snap the screw, and sometimes both. A tapered countersink bit handles the whole thing in one operation, which is why it is on this list.
Hex shanks, and why they matter
A hex-shank bit has a 1/4-inch hexagonal shaft that fits both a drill chuck and an impact driver’s quick-change socket. A round-shank bit fits only a drill chuck. If you own or plan to own an impact driver, hex shanks let you swap between the two tools freely — see our drill vs impact driver comparison for why the two tools are not interchangeable for drilling.
Most brad point, Forstner and twist sets are round-shank, which is correct: they belong in a drill, where you have low-speed control and a clutch.
Storage and care
Loose bits in a drawer dull each other, and a dull bit is the leading cause of burned holes and wandering starts. Keep sets in their cases; the case is most of what you are paying for beyond the steel. Wipe bits with a rag and a little paste waxif your shop is humid — surface rust is abrasive and slows a bit noticeably.
Brad points and Forstners can be resharpened with a small file or a diamond hone, though it takes care. Twist bits can be reground. Spade bits are cheap enough that most people replace them.
Frequently asked questions
What drill bits should a beginner buy for woodworking?+
A brad point set for clean holes in wood, a general-purpose twist set for metal and hardware, and a tapered countersink set for screws. Those three cover almost everything. Add Forstner bits when a project needs flat-bottomed holes, and spade bits when you need a large rough hole fast.
Why does my drill bit wander off the mark?+
Because standard twist bits have a conical tip with no center point, so they skate across the surface until the flutes bite. Brad point bits have a sharp center spur that fixes this entirely. With a twist bit, use a center punch or an awl to make a starting dimple first.
What is the difference between a Forstner bit and a spade bit?+
A Forstner cuts a flat-bottomed hole with clean walls, slowly, and can overlap or start at a board's edge. A spade bit cuts fast with a conical point and leaves ragged walls. Use a Forstner where the hole will be seen or must be flat; use a spade where speed matters and nobody will look.
Why is my drill bit burning the wood?+
Too much speed for the diameter, chips not clearing, or a dull bit. Large-diameter bits need slow speeds — a big Forstner run at full drill speed will scorch a hole black in seconds. Withdraw the bit frequently to clear chips and let heat escape.
Are titanium drill bits better?+
In metal, meaningfully — the titanium nitride coating resists heat and wear. In wood, the coating does very little, because wood does not generate the same heat or abrasion. A cheap brad point will cut a far better hole in wood than an expensive titanium-coated twist bit.
Sources
OSHA — Woodworking eTool — OSHA guidance on woodworking hazards, guarding and safe work practices (accessed July 24, 2026)
