Grain & Glue

Forstner vs Spade Bits

One cuts a flat-bottomed hole you can show people. The other cuts a big hole in ten seconds and leaves it ragged. Which to use for a large hole in wood, and how to drill it without blowing out the back.

By Stephen V.Last updated How we pick

If the hole will be seen, use a Forstner bit — the ComoWare 16-piece set is the pick. It is the only bit in a home shop that cuts a flat-bottomed hole with a clean rim and clean walls, which is what shelf pins, concealed hinge cups, dowel sockets and plugs all require. This is the pick for anyone building furniture or cabinets, where a hole is part of the work rather than a passage through it.

If nobody will ever see the hole, use a spade bit. The Milwaukee 49-22-0071 set does in ten seconds what a Forstner does in a minute: running a cable through a stud, clearing a passage behind a cabinet, boring a rough hole in construction lumber. It costs a fraction as much and it is fine to treat as consumable.

That is the entire decision rule and it is reliable: visible hole, Forstner; hidden hole, spade.Everything below is the detail behind it, and the method for drilling a large hole in wood without tearing out the far face — which is the part that actually goes wrong.

We judge these two on five things, in this order. Hole quality— is the bottom flat, is the rim crisp, are the walls smooth. Speed, because a big hole in a 2x4 with the wrong bit is genuinely slow work. Blowout behavior— what happens to the far side of the board. Whether a cordless drill can swing it, since most readers do not own a drill press. And cost per hole, which is not the same as cost per set.

How this is funded: we earn a commission if you buy through our links, at no extra cost to you. It never changes which tool we recommend, and we’ll tell you plainly when to skip one. Full disclosure.

Quick picks

Ranked on the specs that matter for a beginner and honest buyer fit. Select a row to jump to the full write-up. We haven’t hands-on-tested these — here is exactly what we do instead.

#ProductBest forPrice
1
Comoware 16-Piece Forstner Bit Set

Comoware 16-Piece Forstner Bit Set

Forstner bits cut flat-bottomed holes with clean walls — the ones you need for shelf pins, concealed hinges, dowel sockets and any hole that will be seen. Nothing else in a drill does this job.

Best for holes that will be seen
$47.99 · View on Amazon

Price as of October 21, 2026. #ad How we’re funded

2
Milwaukee 49-22-0071 Spade Wood Boring Bit Set

Milwaukee 49-22-0071 Spade Wood Boring Bit Set

Fast, rough and cheap — exactly right for a hole nobody will ever see. Running a cable, clearing a passage, boring a big hole in a stud: a spade bit does in ten seconds what a Forstner does in a minute.

Best for fast, hidden holes
$24.99 · View on Amazon

Price as of October 21, 2026. #ad How we’re funded

3
DeWalt DW1720 Brad Point Drill Bit Set, 6-Piece

DeWalt DW1720 Brad Point Drill Bit Set, 6-Piece

The bits that should be in your drill for wood. The center spur bites where you marked instead of wandering, and the outer spurs sever the fibers before the flutes lift them — which is the whole difference between a clean hole and a fuzzy one.

Best under 1/2 inch
$12.98 · View on Amazon

$16.9824% off

Price as of October 21, 2026. #ad How we’re funded

The picks in full

#1Best for holes that will be seen

Comoware 16-Piece Forstner Bit Set

Forstner bits cut flat-bottomed holes with clean walls — the ones you need for shelf pins, concealed hinges, dowel sockets and any hole that will be seen. Nothing else in a drill does this job.

Strengths

  • Flat bottom and clean rim, which no twist or spade bit produces
  • Can be started at the edge of a board or overlapped for a slot
  • Sixteen sizes covers hinge cups through to large through-holes

Trade-offs

  • Generates real heat — they burn if you push or run fast
  • Large sizes strain a cordless drill; a drill press is the natural home
TypeForstner bit set
In the set16 pieces
Material / buildCarbon steel
Key spec16 sizes, flat-bottom cutting
Best forBest for flat-bottomed and overlapping holes

Worth knowing. Run Forstner bits slow and clear the chips often. Most burning is caused by speed, not by pressure — the rim is doing a scraping cut and it has nowhere to shed heat.

Specs read from the product listing, on August 11, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.

#2Best for fast, hidden holes

Milwaukee 49-22-0071 Spade Wood Boring Bit Set

Fast, rough and cheap — exactly right for a hole nobody will ever see. Running a cable, clearing a passage, boring a big hole in a stud: a spade bit does in ten seconds what a Forstner does in a minute.

Strengths

  • Cuts large diameters far faster than any other bit
  • Cheap enough to treat as consumable
  • Fits any drill chuck and needs no drill press

Trade-offs

  • Blows out the back of a board unless you back it with scrap
  • Ragged hole walls — never use one where the hole will be visible
TypeSpade bit set
In the set6 pieces
Material / buildSteel
Key specFlat boring, hex shanks
Best forBest for fast, rough holes

Worth knowing. The blowout fix is one habit: stop as soon as the center spur pokes through the far side, flip the board, and finish the hole from the other face.

Specs read from the product listing, on August 11, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.

#3Best under 1/2 inch

DeWalt DW1720 Brad Point Drill Bit Set, 6-Piece

The bits that should be in your drill for wood. The center spur bites where you marked instead of wandering, and the outer spurs sever the fibers before the flutes lift them — which is the whole difference between a clean hole and a fuzzy one.

Strengths

  • Center point stops the bit skating off your mark
  • Side spurs cut a crisp rim, so the hole edge does not tear
  • Six sizes cover almost every beginner hole

Trade-offs

  • For wood only — these will not survive metal
  • Six sizes means gaps; you will eventually want the fuller set
TypeBrad point drill bit set
In the set6 pieces
Material / buildSteel, black oxide finish
Key specBrad point, 6 sizes
Best forBest overall for wood

Worth knowing. The twist bits that come with a drill are engineered for metal. They work in wood and they tear the rim of the hole while doing it. Brad points are the single cheapest upgrade to how your work looks.

Specs read from the product listing, on August 11, 2026. “Not listed” means the listing doesn’t state that figure.

The comparison, line by line

Forstner bits compared with spade bits across the factors that decide which to use for a large hole in wood
 Forstner bitSpade bit
How it cutsA continuous rim scrapes the circumference while the cutters pare the bottom flat.A center spur pulls the bit in while two flat wings scrape the wood away.
Hole bottomFlat, with only the small center point dimple.Not flat — a cone from the center spur, plus ragged steps.
Hole wallsSmooth and crisp at the rim. Clean enough to show.Ragged. Never use one where the hole edge is visible.
SpeedSlow. It is a scraping cut and it has to be fed gently.Very fast — the main reason it exists.
Heat and burningGenerates real heat; burns if you run fast or push hard.Less prone to burning because it clears material so quickly.
Blowout on the far faceMild, and avoided entirely with a backer board.Severe. It will blow a crater out of the back face.
Overlapping holesYes — the rim can cut into an existing hole, which is how you make a slot.No. The center spur has nothing to bite into.
Starting at an edgeYes, partially off the edge of a board.No, the spur needs full material under it.
Drill press or handheldLarge sizes strain a cordless drill; a press is its natural home.Fits any chuck and works handheld, including in a hex-shank impact-ready drill.
CostSeveral times the price of a spade set for the same diameters.Cheap enough to be a consumable.
Use it forHinge cups, shelf pins, dowel sockets, plug holes, anything visible.Cable runs, dust-port holes, passages, rough construction boring.

What a Forstner bit is actually for

A Forstner bit cuts with a continuous circular rim rather than with flutes, so it leaves a hole with a flat bottom and a crisp edge. Four jobs in a home shop genuinely require that, and nothing else in a drill will do them:

  • Concealed hinge cups.A European cabinet hinge needs a 35 mm flat-bottomed socket of a precise depth. A spade bit cannot cut one — there is no flat bottom for the cup to sit on.
  • Shelf pin holes. Clean rims, consistent depth, visible on the inside of every cabinet you build.
  • Dowel and plug sockets. A dowel or a plug needs to bottom out on a flat surface to sit at the right depth.
  • Slots and overlapping holes.Because the rim can cut into an existing hole, you can walk a Forstner along a line to make a slot. A spade bit’s center spur has nothing to grip once it is over an existing hole.

Two things to get right. Run it slow.Most burning with a Forstner is caused by speed, not by pressure — the rim is scraping, and it has nowhere to shed heat. Clear the chips often. Back the bit out of the hole every few turns to let the waste escape, especially on deep holes, because packed chips are the other cause of burning.

Large Forstner bits are also the clearest argument for a benchtop drill press: steady speed, controlled depth and a quill feed instead of your shoulder. If you find yourself boring 35 mm cups by hand, see the drill press roundup. OSHA’s general machine-guarding standard (1910.212) is the reason the two safety rules there are not optional — a machine designed for a fixed location must be securely anchored so it cannot walk, and the point of operation must be guarded, which in practice means clamping the work instead of holding it.

What a spade bit is actually for

A spade bit is a flat piece of steel with a point in the middle. It is crude, and crude is the right engineering answer when the hole is a passage rather than a feature. One hole for a dust port through the back of a cabinet, one hole for a cable through a stud, one hole to start a jigsaw cut in the middle of a panel — a spade bit does each of those in seconds, for pennies, with the drill you already own.

Two habits make them behave. Let the spur lead. Start with the point exactly on your mark and let it pull the bit in; pushing hard just heats the wings. And never drill all the way through unbacked. Spade bits do not merely splinter the far face, they blow a crater out of it.

One genuine advantage worth knowing: hex-shank spade bits can be driven by an impact driver as well as a drill. That is not true of Forstner bits, which want steady rotation rather than hammer impulses — see drill vs impact driver for what each tool is doing differently.

Under 1/2 inch, both of these are the wrong bit

For ordinary holes — screw pilots, dowels, small through-holes — the right bit is a brad point. A center spur bites where you marked instead of skating, and the outer spurs sever the fibers before the flutes lift them, which is the whole difference between a clean hole and a fuzzy one. The twist bits that came with your drill are engineered for metal; they work in wood and they tear the rim while doing it.

This is worth stating plainly because the large-hole question often starts with someone using the wrong bit for small holes too. The full set comparison is in best drill bits for woodworking, and how to drill straight holes covers the other half of the problem, which is the angle rather than the bit.

What about hole saws and auger bits?

Both appear in the same searches and we will be straight about this: our registry holds neither, so there is no pick to recommend and we are not going to substitute something that does a different job.

What they do, so you can decide whether you need one. A hole sawcuts only the circumference and leaves a plug in the middle, which makes it the efficient choice for very large diameters and for through-holes in thin material — and useless for a socket, because it cuts no bottom at all. An auger bit has a screw lead and deep single flute that pulls itself through thick stock and ejects the chips, which makes it the tool for deep holes in beams and timber framing. Neither is a furniture-making bit, and neither replaces a Forstner. If you need one, where to buy woodworking tools covers the options.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a Forstner bit and a spade bit?

A Forstner bit cuts with a continuous rim and leaves a flat-bottomed hole with crisp, smooth walls — the kind of hole that can be seen. A spade bit is a flat blade with a center spur that scrapes material away very fast and leaves a ragged, cone-bottomed hole. Forstner for visible holes and sockets; spade for hidden passages.

What is the best way to drill large holes in wood?

Clamp the workpiece, back it with scrap, and match the bit to the job: a Forstner bit run slow with frequent chip clearing for any hole that will be seen, a spade bit for a hole nobody will ever look at. If you cannot back the board, drill until the center spur breaks through, flip the board, and finish the hole from the other side.

Can you use a spade bit for cabinet hinges?

No. A concealed cabinet hinge needs a 35 mm flat-bottomed socket of a specific depth, and a spade bit cuts a coned bottom with ragged walls — the hinge cup has nothing to sit on. This is one of the jobs only a Forstner bit does in a home shop.

Why does my Forstner bit burn the wood?

Almost always speed, not pressure. The rim is making a scraping cut and has nowhere to shed heat, so it has to be run slowly. Packed chips are the other cause — back the bit out of the hole every few turns on deeper holes so the waste can escape.

Do I need a drill press for Forstner bits?

Not for small sizes, but it helps enormously for large ones. Big Forstner bits strain a cordless drill and want steady speed, controlled depth and a quill feed rather than your shoulder. If you are boring 35 mm hinge cups regularly, that is the clearest case for a benchtop drill press there is.

Sources

  • OSHA — 1910.212, General requirements for all machines — The general machine-guarding standard, which is what applies to a drill press — 1910.213 covers woodworking machinery and does not list one. (a)(1): "One or more methods of machine guarding shall be provided to protect the operator and other employees in the machine area from hazards such as those created by point of operation, ingoing nip points, rotating parts, flying chips and sparks." (a)(3)(ii): "The point of operation of machines whose operation exposes an employee to injury, shall be guarded. The guarding device shall be in conformity with any appropriate standards therefor, or, in the absence of applicable specific standards, shall be so designed and constructed as to prevent the operator from having any part of his body in the danger zone during the operating cycle." (b), Anchoring fixed machinery: "Machines designed for a fixed location shall be securely anchored to prevent walking or moving." (accessed October 9, 2026)
  • OSHA — 1910.133, Eye and face protection — The standard requiring ANSI-rated eye protection against flying particles (accessed July 24, 2026)
  • OSHA — Woodworking eTool — OSHA guidance on woodworking hazards, guarding and safe work practices (accessed July 24, 2026)

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